Albert Roux, the legendary chef who has died aged 85, spoke to Janet Christie about his childhood, cooking and how his first plan was to become a priest

By Janet Christie
Published 8th Jan 2021, 07:00 BST
Updated 8th Jan 2021, 19:05 BST
Albert Roux in 2009, the legendary Michelin-starred French chef, who died this week at the age of 85. Roux came to the UK in the 1950s and later opened Le Gavroche, the first restaurant in the UK to gain three stars, before going on to open restaurants and bistros in Scotland.Albert Roux in 2009, the legendary Michelin-starred French chef, who died this week at the age of 85. Roux came to the UK in the 1950s and later opened Le Gavroche, the first restaurant in the UK to gain three stars, before going on to open restaurants and bistros in Scotland.
Albert Roux in 2009, the legendary Michelin-starred French chef, who died this week at the age of 85. Roux came to the UK in the 1950s and later opened Le Gavroche, the first restaurant in the UK to gain three stars, before going on to open restaurants and bistros in Scotland.
Albert Roux's career as a chef and restaurateur has seen him gain three Michelin stars, transform British cuisine and encourage a whole generation of top British talent, writes Janet Christie, who interviewed him in 2010 and again in 2016.

ALBERT ROUX's dark brown eyes are as warm as the molten chunks in an oven-fresh pain au chocolate, and his voice washes over you like crème anglaise. He giggles and fizzes like his beloved Krug, oozing charm and bonhomie. With his 'Allo 'Allo! accent, he calls me "my dear", and tells me I'm "so well informed", merely because I mention his Michelin stars. He might be 74, but this reformed womaniser is still a shameless flirt.

Roux is the archetypal French chef who, along with brother Michel, revolutionised British cooking in the 1960s. He has three Michelin stars, an OBE, books, TV appearances and a string of world-class restaurants enjoyed by the likes of Tony Blair and David Cameron. His kitchens have trained a second generation of Michelin star winners, Gordon Ramsay, Martin Wishart, Andrew Fairlie, to name just the Scots. A year after his first Scottish restaurant opened in Inverness, he is on the verge of opening another two, at Greywalls in East Lothian and Inver Lodge Hotel in Sutherland.

Plans to be a priest

Albert Roux and son Michel Roux Jnr (centre), with granddaughter Emily, in 2016. The dynasty opened fine dining restaurants in Scotland at Inverlochy Castle near Fort William, Greywalls, East Lothian, Crossbasket Castle in Blantyre, Cromlix in Perthshire and Rocpool Reserve Hotel in Inverness, and formerly Inver Lodge Hotel in Sutherland. Inver Lodge Hotel in Sutherland was relaunched as an independent hotel in 2019 with a more informal restaurant replacing Chez Roux.].Albert Roux and son Michel Roux Jnr (centre), with granddaughter Emily, in 2016. The dynasty opened fine dining restaurants in Scotland at Inverlochy Castle near Fort William, Greywalls, East Lothian, Crossbasket Castle in Blantyre, Cromlix in Perthshire and Rocpool Reserve Hotel in Inverness, and formerly Inver Lodge Hotel in Sutherland. Inver Lodge Hotel in Sutherland was relaunched as an independent hotel in 2019 with a more informal restaurant replacing Chez Roux.].
Albert Roux and son Michel Roux Jnr (centre), with granddaughter Emily, in 2016. The dynasty opened fine dining restaurants in Scotland at Inverlochy Castle near Fort William, Greywalls, East Lothian, Crossbasket Castle in Blantyre, Cromlix in Perthshire and Rocpool Reserve Hotel in Inverness, and formerly Inver Lodge Hotel in Sutherland. Inver Lodge Hotel in Sutherland was relaunched as an independent hotel in 2019 with a more informal restaurant replacing Chez Roux.].

Yet the young Albert Roux had no intention of being a chef. He was desperate to leave school, where he excelled in pranks such as gluing the teacher to her chair. "I was very naughty. I can be very mischievous," he says. Never mind that his father was a pork butcher, Albert was going to make his life in the church. "My first wish was to be a priest. I was very much taken by the church from the age of six and went to mass every day, four times on Sunday. I was an altar boy, served mass and was learning Latin. But at the age of 13, unfortunately something happened to me that put me off the church. I had an encounter with a priest which was not right."